Pratik : PRATIK COVER STORY: HLF/NYWW: Kumbh Mela of World Writing BY Amar Aakash

AMAR AAKASH

HLF/NYWW

Kumbh Mela of World Writing

Over two dozen poets and writers—Ruth Danon, Nina Kossman, Tom Lutz, Vassilis Manoussakis, Sona Van, Dariusz Lebioda, Ravi Shankar, musician Nancy Parish, among others—sat on the stone steps facing the eastern gate of Pashupatinath. The air was thick with the scent of burning incense and the acrid smoke of funeral pyres. Bedecked corpses lay on the ghats as families performed last rites, honoring the souls of the departed. Monkeys, joggers, and tourists wandered through the sacred grounds, while young children and black-eyed sadhus searched for alms. The murky Bagmati River flowed indifferently, bearing witness to both the scorching sun and the burning bodies on its banks.

Himalayan poet Yuyutsu Sharma recited his long poem, Pashupati, from his new book, The Alchemy of Nine Smiles. American poet Tony Barnstone provided insights into the poem, helping the audience appreciate its intricate themes and imagery. The host Shreejana Bhandari then shared a deeply personal poem about her recently deceased mother, capturing the poignant moment of her cremation at the very same Pashupati Ghat.

Writers from five continents had gathered along the riverbank as part of the New York Writers Workshop. They found themselves overwhelmed by this novel form of creative exchange, each exploring the spiritual and philosophical dimensions of the shrine and tracing its resonance in poetry. It was an immersion into Lord Shiva's cosmos, where creation and destruction intertwined seamlessly.

After the reading, the group rose from the steps. As they walked, American photographer Julie Krishnan Williams suddenly burst into tears. Surprised, I asked, “Are you crying?” She wiped her eyes and replied, “I was trying to grasp the spiritual essence of a lost family member, and somehow, in this place, it all came back to me.”

A Chinese media professional, Xiao Xiao, having witnessed and filmed Hindu funeral traditions, was visibly moved. Though she was not permitted to enter the Pashupatinath Temple, which is open only to Hindus, British writer Maria Heath Beckett engaged in an animated discussion about Mahadev, Parvati, and Ganesh, passionately exploring the incarnations of deities and their cosmic roles through a series of probing questions.

The New York Writers Workshop in Kathmandu was not just about literary craft; it delved into cultural studies, spiritual explorations, and creative dialogue. It emerged as a groundbreaking event in Nepal’s literary history—a form of literary tourism that allowed thirty-five writers and artists from five continents to experience the country beyond its famed Mount Everest and Gurkha heritage. Whether it was Indian writer Pankaj Bista, celebrated Malayalam poet K. Satchidanandan, Panamanian poet Gorka Lasa, who carried a Nepali name and temperament, or the exuberant South African poet JahRose Jafta, who danced wholeheartedly to Nepali folk tunes, this gathering felt like a modern-day Kumbh Mela of creative souls seeking wisdom, connection, and artistic evolution.

Over a short period, through literary workshops and field visits to Kathmandu, Changunarayan, Pokhara, and Chitwan, the visiting writers absorbed fragments of Nepal, carrying them back to their homelands. The journey exposed them to Nepal's perilous highways, heart-stopping boat rides, and breathtaking natural diversity, offering moments of awe and surprise.

Nepali literature, which often remains confined within its linguistic boundaries, found a rare opportunity to introduce itself to an international audience. Beyond the sessions featuring Nepali-language poets, there were also discussions with contemporary Nepali poets writing in English. Writers like Anand Vijay Gurung and Bhuwan Thapaliya, who are steadfastly crafting Nepali poetry in English, spoke about the challenges and rewards of bridging cultural and linguistic gaps. This exchange made it easier to identify themes that could resonate globally, reinforcing the idea that Nepali poetry has the potential to reach and move readers beyond its native borders.

Personally, I witnessed how non-Nepali audiences perceived our myths, customs, and culture. Many of these traditions, which we take for granted in our daily lives, held profound symbolic significance for those encountering them for the first time. This realization prompted me to reexamine and appreciate the deeper meanings embedded in our cultural practices.

A particularly significant and unique aspect of the workshop was the recognition of Gopal Prasad Rimal, the father of Nepali prose poetry. Discussions on Rimal’s life and work helped clarify his importance as a legendary poet. His son, Madan Rimal, expressed gratitude, stating that this was the first time Rimal’s poetry had been honored on an international platform. Yuyutsu Sharma, who arranged this tribute, has also translated Rimal’s poems into English in a bilingual book, a step that will undoubtedly expand appreciation for his work beyond Nepal. I am hopeful that in the future, another poetic titan, Lekhnath Paudyal, will receive similar recognition.

Yuyutsu envisioned and structured the New York Writers Workshop and the Himalayan Literature Festival to run parallel to each other. Alongside the international panel, a separate panel of Nepali writers made the workshop even more fascinating. From renowned fiction writers like Narayan Wagle and Narayan Dhakal to critics like Sharad Pradhan, essayist and journalist Deepak Sapkota, and foremost journalist Yubaraj Ghimire, each contributed their own impact and insights. The sessions included Nepali poetry readings, Nepal Bhasa poetry readings, English poetry by Nepali poets, and a discussion on contemporary Nepali writing featuring critic Rajkumar Baniya, poet Avaya Shrestha, and Bimala Tumkhewa.

Poets from previous generations, such as Dwarika Shrestha, Shailendra Sakar, Kishore Pahadi and Sita Pandey shared the stage with contemporary authors of the younger generation, including Avaya Shrestha, Ramesh Kshitiz, Tanka Upreti, Shakuntala Joshi, and Laxmi Rumba. Voices of different generations came face to face, fostering a rich exchange of ideas and styles.

With its long and rich literary history, Nepal Bhasa’s poetry session was another major achievement of the festival. From esteemed ambassadors of Nepal Bhasa poetry—Durga Lal Shrestha, Pratisara Sayami, Anand Raj Joshi—to today’s prominent poets like Suresh Kiran, Sudheer Khwabi, Triratna Shakya, Rajnimila, and Sanjay Raj Sharma, each contributed to the diverse dimensions and voices of this poetic tradition. The contribution of TV journalist and poet Mohraj Sharma to the festival cannot be overlooked.

For me, a writers' workshop is more than a structured seminar; it is an opportunity to connect deeply with fellow creators. Beyond the formal sessions, we engaged in informal discussions about language, culture, music, and personal interests. Conversations ranged from Miles Davis to Chinua Achebe, from film noir to pulp magazines.

One particularly memorable encounter was with the affable poet Tim Tomlinson, who, like me, is a film noir enthusiast. I still smile when I recall his disbelief upon learning that Nepal no longer has CD or DVD stores. His book title, This Is Not Happening to You, and its striking cover remain etched in my mind, reminding me of The Woman in the Window.

Despite the joy and inspiration of the event, I couldn’t shake a lingering sadness. Kathmandu, with its undisciplined traffic, choking dust, and urban chaos, risks overshadowing its rich history and vibrant culture. I wonder if my fellow writers also felt this duality—awed by the city’s spiritual depth yet disheartened by its infrastructural neglect.

Nevertheless, our visitors chose to embrace Nepal in its entirety. They overlooked the chaos, relished dal-bhaat with delight, and participated in Nepali folk dances with unrestrained joy. It felt as though the world had gathered in a single village, celebrating the harvest of artistic and cultural exchange.

Amar Aakash is a young Nepalese poet and film critic. He has recently published Tungana, his debut collection of poems. Currently, he is working on his first novel and resides in Kathmandu.

Also Available on Amazon, Flipkart & Daraz